The Getaway
What You Must See in Lunenburg

Canada's Maritime provinces are often overlooked in favor of vacations in British Columbia. But the towns on the Atlantic coast have a charm all their own, with awesome road trip potential. Lunenburg is an excellent destination if you are craving a slower pace of life with a side of history and culture. This Nova Scotian port town's historic district is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with remarkable architecture.

Throw in cold, refreshing swims, iconic schooners, German and French influences, seaside camping, and a delightful array of restaurants serving coastal cuisine, and you've got yourself the perfect mini-break or forever home.

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01 Old Town Lunenburg

Lunenburg is rich in history, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its well-preserved Old Town district, which was founded in 1753 and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. The Old Town is a fabulous example of a British Colonial grid-pattern street layout and is filled with historic wooden architecture in Cape Cod, British Classical and Second Empire styles, among others.

A stroll here will transport you to the 18th century when shipbuilding and fishing played an even more significant role in the local economy than it does today. Notice how the brightly-colored, postcard-worthy buildings orient toward the harbor and meld effortlessly with their coastal setting, and look out for the Lunenburg "bump" dormers.

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02 Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic

This waterfront museum is open seasonally and demonstrates what it's like to live in a seaside community where so much of life revolves around the Atlantic Ocean and maritime exploits. Come and listen to retired fishermen and make your way through three floors of artifacts and exhibits on fishing techniques, boats, and sailors, including seafarers from the Mi'kmaq.

The museum features two vintage vessels, an aquarium, a gift shop, and a wharfside restaurant serving yummy seafood. Screenings and lectures are par for the course, and the staff are courteous and informative. All ages are welcome.

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03 Bluenose II

Lunenburg's mascot is a schooner, a replica of a nationally famous 20th-century racing vessel called the Blue Nose, which appears on the Canadian dime. The original Blue Nose represented Canada admirably before a storm cut its story short in 1946, and in 1963, its ambassadorial legacy continued in the form of the newly constructed Blue Nose 2.

You can book 2-hour morning or afternoon sailing cruises in Lunenburg or Halifax to feel the wind in your hair atop an icon. See the crew working like a well-oiled machine, and join in on "Deckhand for the Day" trips. You can also talk to the crew during free open deck sessions.

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04 Lunenburg Waterfront

Multicolour Adirondack chairs facing bay, Lunenburg harbour, Nova Scotia, Canada. Photo taken in September 2023.

Lunenburg's quaint waterfront offers scenic views and various activities, including opportunities to observe boatbuilders doing their thing, go whale watching, or ride on a horse and carriage. Some stores are seasonal, but you won't struggle to find places to spend your money in winter. Wander around leisurely and sample the fare at award-winning restaurants like Beach Pea Kitchen and Bar. This is the kind of place where you can truly unwind.

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05 Lunenburg Academy

This three-story castle-like school building sits on Gallows Hill and is a sight to behold with a bold Victorian aesthetic. It was designed by Harry H. Mott and constructed in 1894. It is a relic of Canada's prestigious academy system. Today, the historical landmark is a community cultural center containing a library and the Lunenburg Academy of Music Performance (LAMP). Visitors can view a heritage classroom, picnic, make use of the playground, or pour over a book.

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06 St. John's Anglican Church

Lunenburg's first church is another 18th-century architectural gem, this time in the Rural Gothic style. The church's event calendar includes Sunday services, family play group meetings, and concerts. Gaze at the stained glass windows and stunning ceiling, learn about the early settlers on a walking tour, and see how the church bounced back after a 2001 fire caused extensive damage.

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07 Knaut-Rhuland House Museum

Explore a two-and-a-half-story historic house with New England exteriors, Georgian interiors, and exhibits on Lunenburg's history. The Knaut and Ruland families were prominent members of Lunenburg society, and you'll get a glimpse into their world. Fantastic costumed guides bring the past to life with riveting tales, a wealth of knowledge, and traditional craft demos. In summer, free workshops enable the public to try their hand at some of these creative practices. Entry is by donation, and the museum is open daily in season.

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08 Ironworks Distillery

If you're interested in alcohol production, check out Ironworks Distillery, which is so named because the space used to be an old blacksmith shop. Tours give customers a chance to taste various products made from local ingredients like maple and fruits, and guides explain what the equipment is doing. Kids are allowed on the tour too, but don't get any free samples, of course. You'll leave with new recipes and insight into how craft distilleries operate.

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09 Lunenburg Art Gallery

Since 1972, when it opened to display works by native son and mouth painter Earl Bailly, the Lunenburg Art Gallery has been a champion of the local arts community. It's run by volunteers and is generally open on Wednesdays to Sundays between April and October. Amateurs and pros from near and far (elsewhere in Canada and the U.S.) can display their work, and the gallery receives a 40% commission from sales. Themed exhibitions on First Fridays keep the gallery's contents relevant and exciting.

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10 Lunenburg Farmer's Market

For over four decades, the Lunenburg Farmers' Market has been a fixture on the South Shore calendar, filling pantries with fresh produce and providing a space for the community to gather. This year-round Thursday market swops between two indoor locations depending on the season and is a great place to grab breakfast or buy products from tables laden with baked goods, preserves, flowers, and artisanal items like custom footwear, seaweed soap, upcycled rope and sails, and Mi'Kmaq crafts to name a few.

You'll also get a chance to interact with local not-for-profits to find out more about the work they do. Opening hours are between 8 a.m. and 12 p.m.

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11 Lunenburg Walking Tours

Walking tours are arguably the best way to see a town, and the ones in Lunenburg are as highly rated as they come. The guides share funny anecdotes and keep a comfortable pace so no one feels like they're falling behind, and tours take place come rain or shine between May and October. You'll leave with a true sense of this part of Nova Scotia and an inclination to do the other tours on offer, including a spooky Haunted one suitable for kids. Walks differ in duration and depart from the Lunenberg Academy.

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12 Ovens Natural Park

A bird's eye view of the Ovens Natural Park in Nova Scotia, Canada

This privately owned park's central location makes it a good base for exploring the South Shore. Enjoy oceanside tent camping with gorgeous views and fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the shore. If camping is not quite for you, consider renting a cottage. A 45-minute walk with rock features will get you to the sea cave "ovens," and your timing will affect how dramatic the rushing water sounds. The path can be slippery, so watch your step. Pan for gold, or chill out at the Miner's Diner. The staff is friendly, and the park is clean.

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13 Hirtle's Beach

Wave action at Hirtle's Beach, NS post Tropical Storm Teddy

If long walks on a white sandy beach appeal to you, Hirtle's Beach should be on your itinerary. The Gaff Point hike is a favorite for coastal views. It covers four miles and takes less than two hours to complete. If the Atlantic is too frigid for you, the two swimming lakes at Hirtle's are more accommodating than their ocean counterpart. Dogs are welcome, provided they're leashed, and amenities include bathrooms and picnic tables.

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14 Back Harbour Trail

Path along a coastline trail in Australia

The Back Harbor trail begins at The Knot Pub and follows an old rail line route to Halifax. It is dotted with benches, picnic tables, and lookout areas. The graveled route is fairly flat and easy at under two miles long, but it's short and sweet, with pleasant scenery and mountain biking access. Open year-round, this stroller-friendly trail is a nice way to get moving, and dogs can come along, too.

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15 Laurie Swim Gallery

Laurie Swim is renowned for her incredible, award-winning quiltmaking and innovative techniques. Each quilt features lush, painting-like images of Nova Scotian coastal scenes. You'll find pieces by Laurie herself as well as works by other regional creatives at this gallery in Old Town Lunenburg. Marvel at the details rendered with fabric, thread, and textured materials like shells, and you'll realize how labor-intensive this kind of art is, often taking months to produce and commanding high prices as a result. Gallery admission is free.

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16 The Savvy Sailor Restaurant

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The Savvy Sailor Cafe overlooks the harbor and has a lovely ambiance, with some lattes and a delicious breakfast or lunch fare featuring seafood. Try the beet salad, Atlantic Bennie, fish burgers, crab cakes with rhubarb relish, and rum and raisin cake for dessert. Also, the raspberry jam is too good to gatekeep, so order some toast.

This is a popular, kid-friendly dining spot, and you may have to wait to be seated, but the servers are efficient and friendly. Gluten-free options are available.

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17 Lincoln Street Food

For a refined, curated eat-out experience, make a dinner reservation at Chef Paolo Colbertaldo's Lincoln Street Food. Here, dishes change with the seasons, as they should, and fresh local ingredients are the hero on the plate. Courses are presented with finesse, and an open kitchen provides insight into how meals are prepared.

If you're lucky, you'll get to try flavorful bouillabaisse, miso-torched oysters, blistered peppers, and wild mushroom tacos that will have you raving. The vegetarian and vegan offerings are appetizing, and you'll get high-quality food at a reasonable price. Buy some pickled veg to go.

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18 The Salt Shaker Deli & Inn

Another bistro with harbor views, Salt Shaker Deli and Inn, is a casual dining fav with a menu created by Chef Martin Ruiz Salvador. This is the place to go for a lobster roll and rich, yummy seafood chowder with smoked haddock, mussels, shrimp, and potato—you could easily split a serving as they're so big. Other cozy dishes to try are the thin-crust margherita pizza, scallop linguine, and salmon risotto, or switch things up with the pad thai. For dessert, the apple crumble is a winner, but they do a commendable chocolate mousse, too.

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19 The Knot Pub

The Knot Pub's name should give you a hint about its decor. This nautical-themed hangout serves pub grub and a boatload of atmosphere. After sightseeing or relaxing, stop here for fish and chips, stringy mozzarella sticks, a Caesar salad, and tender, crispy calamari. The peanut butter pie made in-house is to die for, and you may want to take some home with you. Takeout is possible, as is a ghost sighting if you happen to drop by at night, and you can also buy merch proclaiming "Why Knot?" Wednesdays are trivia nights.

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20 Blue Rocks

Silhouette of senior man kayaking off Galiano Island with brilliant sunset over the ocean. British Columbia, Canada.

Blue Rocks is a tiny, tranquil fishing village on the Lighthouse Route that is beloved by photographers thanks to its blueish slate rocks and marooned fishing shack. Dozens of nearby islands also make this naturally beautiful area a hit with avid kayakers. Check out Pleasant Padding for guided tours, equipment rentals, and lessons. This hamlet with colorful cottages also has a super cute general store called The Point.

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21 The bottom line

Aerial image of Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, Canada

There's lots to love about Lunenburg, from its delightful Old Town and resident artists to its maritime heritage, including the showboating Blue Nose 2. Poseidon's domain, the majestic ocean, is both a background and pivot around which life revolves, and you'll see the sea on your plate and the weathered fishing shanties. If you've been to Lunenburg before, we'd love to hear about your favorite things to see and do, and if you have questions about the locations mentioned, ask away.

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